Over the last couple of weeks I’ve been lucky enough to do a bit of shooting with Angie and Kuni Takanami and Mick Waters for Patagonia Australia. I was in front of the lens this time, hunting down lefts with James MacMillan and Belinda Baggs, but were most of the time allured by the majestic beauty of The Pass and it’s long little rights
Below is the story thanks to “Mumma” Takanami, to read the full piece visit their website Surfers Eyes.
I remember merging towards the profession of surf scribe daydreaming up images of riding epic waves around the globe, clocking up hours on Indonesian boat charters, backpacking through wild landscapes, eating real local fare, getting drunk on cheap wine and filling up page after page in my journals.
The reality is, I’ve found myself somewhere between domestic house wife/mother of two typhoon Takanami brothers and feeling the pain of surf magazine editors who spend endless days behind computer screens drooling over those perfect tube shots that come flooding in via digital cyber space.
The truth is, sometimes I pray for the swell to drop. Only then can I surf. Maybe that’s why I have fallen in love with 2ft clean, glassy lefthanders that sneak their way through the beachies at Tallows and the Wreck, when the rest of the tube chargers are home sucking back coldies, finding time for their kids and partners, and wishing for the swell to pick up again.
The past two weeks I haven’t surfed. Well, I lie. I had one bodysurf. In two weeks. Or has it been longer?
What day is it today?
It’s been long enough.
For the past fortnight, Kuni and I transformed into office workers of the sea, lugging our kids to the beach every day to shoot swell after swell with a bunch of go-go-gadget goofy-footers. Belinda Baggs. Johnny B Good. Jimmy Mac.
With Kuni on stills, Mick Waters rolling video and the lefties running the show, we were all on 5am starts taking over the bay and surrounds like grannies at the Suffo on pension day.